Thesis Details

Thesis Title: A comparison of air jet and rapier machines and their set-up on fabric cover
Thesis Author: Susan McLendon
Abstract: Fabric cover can be defined as the fraction of the fabric surface area that is covered by yarns, or the ability of a fabric to conceal what is beneath it. Weaving manufacturers have noticed a difference in fabric cover as product styles have been transferred from older rapier machines to the new high speed air jet machines. Understanding the elements affecting fabric geometry, and the resultant fabric cover, will aid fabric designers and weaving manufacturers in producing fabrics with the desired cover. In this research, rapier and air jet filling insertion methods were evaluated. Machine settings within each system were investigated to determine their effects on fabric geometry and fabric cover. The fabric samples were finished and evaluated to determine if changes in weave system and machine set-up could be detected after finishing. The primary research conclusions of this study are: The greige rapier conditions, on average, had more filling crimp than the greige air jet fabric. Few variables were significant in causing changes to the fabric crimp after finishing. i The harness height for both weaving systems had the greatest impact on fabric cover as measured by air permeability, light transmittance, observer evaluations. As the shed geometry became more asymmetrical, crimp decreased, air permeability decreased, and light transmittance decreased, and judged cover was determined to improve.