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Abstract:
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As the mercerization process becomes more advanced, textile manufacturers are
investing in ranges such as Benninger's new "Dimensa" range. Innovative concepts involving
hot mercerization and chain/chainless tension assist these ranges in producing a superior
quality product. Thus, in order to optimize the process, it is necessary to understand how
each factor affects the end properties of the fabric.
This study was designed to examine the effects of caustic concentration, solution
temperature, and tension in the mercerization process on the fiber morphology, physical
properties, and shade difference of 100% cotton, 3/1 twill fabric. The fabric was mercerized
in the laboratory at ITT using a stretching device similar to those used for silk-screening.
Additional fabric was mercerized on Benninger's "Dimensa" range. Once mercerized, the
fabric was dyed with a direct, vat, sulfur, and fiber reactive dye. The internal structure of
the fibers was examined using near-infrared spectrophotometry, x-ray diffraction, and barium
activity number determination. Strength testing and fiber cross-section evaluation were used
to evaluate the physical properties of the fabric. Finally, reflectance, absorbance, and luster
measurements were taken of the dyed fabric.
Test results showed that the chemical concentration of the caustic sod:a significantly
effected a variety of fabric properties. Not only did the degree of mercerization increase with
higher concentrations, but the tensile strength, fiber diameter, dye uptake, and whiteness were
also significantly effected. Furthermore, higher levels of tension caused an increase BAN
and luster. Finally, fiber cross-section was affected by an interaction betwee:n tension and
temperature, and dye uptake was affected by an interaction between tension and chemical
concentration. Approximately 75-80% of the differences in shade can be attributed to dye
uptake, while the other 20% is the result of luster, gloss, and whiteness. In conclusion, barium activity numbers can be used to predict changes in the crystalline order, crystalline
index, and lattice structure of the fabric.
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