Thesis Details

Thesis Title: The effects of preparation, dyeing, drying, and mechanical finishing techniques on shrinkage and other physical properties of cotton jersey and fleece
Thesis Author: Quentin Bonner
Abstract: Because of the consumers desire to have knit fabrics that are chemical free, yet have excellent quality and performance characteristics, controlling fabric performance requires a complete working knowledge of knit finishing. Thus, understanding how knits behave at each processing stage is crucial in providing the information necessary to determine the best processing methods to achieve ideal fabric physical properties. Much research has been conducted on developing stability of the final fabric during knitting. It has been determined that fabric parameters such as weight, quality, and dimensional stability could be determined at the knitting stage. The opportunity exists when trying to reach these parameters as a result of the forces imparted on the fabric during processing of the fabric. In studying the effect of preparation, dyeing, drying and mechanical finishing techniques on shrinkage and other physical properties of cotton jersey and fleece knits, both styles were processed through six different preparation methods. The prepared fabric was then dyed black by four means which included three dye jets and pad batch dyeing. The next step was for the fabric to be extracted and plaited to a consistent width prior to drying on two separate dryers. The fleece style was napped, leaving compacting as the final step for both styles. These machine configurations were to provide important information on the changes that occurred in the physical properties of the fabric occurring between processing steps. Testing evaluations of the fabric samples determined that not only did each process step influence the fabric performance, but also the different components within that processing step had differing effects to the fabric. The results showed that tension and stretching actions-·must be minimized during early processing steps, preparation and dyeing, to have any reasonable chance of obtaining optimum fabric stability and performance in the final fabric. Drying method had no influence on jersey fabric properties, yet for the fleece fabric, drying affected bursting strength, courses per inch, and fabric yield. In an attempt to improve length shrinkage and width, compacting was utilized. This goal was obtained, but at the cost of sacrificing width shrinkage, bursting strength, and a consistent shade in the final fabrics. This research has shown that each stage of knit processing can drastically change the physical properties of the final finished fabric. The results will allow knit finishers to understand the effects of each production step on cotton jersey and fleece knits.