Thesis Details

Thesis Title: The effect of polyester denier and length on low size and sizeless weaving of polyester and polyester/cotton murata twin spun yarns
Thesis Author: Richard Taber
Abstract: Evaluations of new manufacturing technology are necessary in order to characterize machinery into those areas where it will be most effective. This thesis investigated the effect of polyester denier and cut length on yarns produced on the Murata Twin Spinner. These yarns were produced in polyester and polyester/cotton blends. The Murata Twin Spinner is a recently introduced air jet spinning system. The MTS produces two air jet spun yarns at each spinning position. These are then taken up parallel on a large package. These packages are then ply twisted on a two-for-one twister. This spinning system offers the yarn manufacturer the capability of producing high-quality plied yarn at a competitive cost to ring spun singles. Research using 100% cotton yarn indicated that the plied structure performed with fewer stops than ring singles at size add-on levels below 8%. The purpose of this thesis research was to characterize the impact of three different denier polyesters and three different cut length polymers on the yarn quality, weaving performance, and fabric characteristics. The results of this research are as follows: 1. Polyester/cotton yarns produced on the MTS exceeded the ITT 75% overall rank versus a similar ring spun yarn. Uster %CV, single end strength, and strength variability received rankings over 85%. 2. Abrasion resistance of all yarns exceeded the ITT standard of 1500 cycles on the Ruti Webtester. Yarns containing 1.0 dpf polyester exhibited the most abrasion resistance. 3. The MTS yarn could be woven without the addition of warp sizing. Yarns containing finer fibers (0.6 and 1.0 denier per filament) exhibited lowest stop rates in polyester/cotton blends. 4. The MTS yarns containing microdenier fibers were rated as having the softest fabric hand. Polyester/cotton microdenier blend was categorized as having a softer hand than fabric made from ring spun yarn. The results of this investigation indicate that the Murata Twin Spinner can produce polyester/cotton yarns which, by selecting the proper polyester fiber characteristics, can be woven without the addition of warp sizing. The physical characteristics of fabrics produced from these yarns exceeded ring spun yarn in the areas of hand, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance.