Thesis Details

Thesis Title: An investigation into the influence of various percentages of combed cotton fiber in sliver fed to open-end and ring spinning on yarn and knitted fabric quality
Thesis Author: James Caldwell
Abstract: Yarn producers are constantly looking for new ways to produce quality goods at a lower cost. One way to achieve this is through open-end spinning. It is well known that open-end spinning increases the production of yarn and eliminates preparatory processes, but the quality and fabrics produced from ring yarn is in many aspects preferable to open-end yarn. On the other hand, combing is process which adds a positive influence on ring yarn quality, but also adds extra cost to the yarn process. Because yarn manufacturers may not be aware of the effects of combing on open-end yarn characteristics and subsequent fabric properties, this thesis was designed to correlate changes in amounts of combed sliver blended with carded sliver to changes in yarn and fabric qualities. To fulfill this study, fibers from a compromised laydown were used to produce yarns spun form 100% cotton and a 50/50 polyester/cotton stock using five different blend levels of combed and carded slivers for the cotton portions of the test conditions. Two different yarn counts, 30/1 and 18/1 Ne, were spun from the sliver blends on an open-end spinning machine, and for comparison purposes on a ring spinning machine. Once spun, each of yarn conditions were used to knit a fabric panel consisting of that one yarn type. These fabrics were then commercially scoured, bleached, dyed, and calendered. This research determined that the only significant affect that increasing combed cotton has on open-end yarn quality is fewer Uster neps and Classimat total defects. As for the ranking of the knitted fabrics, increasing combed cotton improved both the fabric appearance and hand. In conclusion, based on the parameters used in this research; such as, fiber limitations, processing equipment and settings, and testing procedures, increasing the amount of combed fibers in sliver does not practically improve open-end yarn quality. However, this work demonstrates that it is possible to produce a fabric from open-end yarns with a better hand and appearance by increasing the amount of combed cotton in the production of open-end yarn.