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Abstract:
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The hand or feel of a fabric is one of the most
important factors influencing its acceptance.
Historically, hand evaluation has been a subjective
process. Judges would grasp fabrics in their hands and use
various words to describe the way it feels. High
variability and poor reproducibility of sUbjective
assessment lead to the need for a system of objective
measurement relating to hand.
In the past twenty years much research work has been
devoted to the development of objective methods which can
measure fabric mechanical properties relating to hand. In
1972 Dr. Sueo Kawabata developed the Kawabata Evaluation
System for Fabrics. This is considered the standard system
for the measurement of fabric mechanical properties
relating to hand. The cost of this system along with
complicated testing procedures has limited the widespread
use of this system.
The FAST system is a system recently introduced for the
measurement of fabric mechanical properties relating to
hand. It is intended as a reliable, quick response system
for control of fabric finishing and tailoring.
This study compares the two systems on their ability to
measure fabric mechanical properties related to hand.
Thirty-five fabrics taken from a broad range of categories were tested on both systems and the results were
analyzed through various forms of statistics.
Results from one set of regression and canonical
analyses indicated the two systems were highly related when
comparing the similar mechanical properties tested. A
separate set of regression and canonical analyses indicated
that both systems had high correlations to a subjective
evaluation of hand.
Discriminant analyses were done on results from both
systems to determine each system's ability to categorize
the fabrics into broad categories. The KESF was able to
group 100% of the fabrics into the correct category while
the FAST system, which is relatively much more inexpensive,
was able to categorize 89% of the fabrics into the correct
category.
Results from an analysis of variance indicated the FAST
system was able to discern the difference between fabrics
with subtle differences. This could indicate the system is
a good tool for use in the Quality Control and Quality
Assurance of fabrics.
The results from this thesis indicated the FAST system
is a viable tool for the objective measurement of fabric
mechanical properties. Its relative cost and ability to
give a quick ,assessment of a fabric's mechanical properties
will aid in technical communication regarding fabric hand.
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