Thesis Details

Thesis Title: A study of the relationship between polyester properties and the resultant polyester/cotton blended yarn properties and weaving performance
Thesis Author: Thomas F. Aubrey
Abstract: Over the years, fiber producers have been asked to alter their product to help weavers improve performance. Fiber properties have been changed to engineer yarns that exhibit improved strength, elongation, and evenness. These efforts have improved weaving performance in some applications, while impaired performance has been observed in others. The fiber producers have not always understood this phenomenon. The goal of this thesis was to provide information on how fiber properties relate to weaving performance. The results can be used to determine the appropriate fiber and yarn properties needed to optimize weaving performance. Three different polyester fibers with variations in denier and modulus were used. All are commercially available from Dupont. They are a 1.0 denier high-tenacity polyester, a 1.5 denier high-tenacity polyester, and a 1.5 denier regular-tenacity polyester. Each fib~r was blended with the cotton and spun on each of three different spinning systems: ring, open-end rotor, and air-jet. A total of ten different 35/1 Ne yarns were produced in order to generate yarns with a wide variety of physical and structural characteristics. These yarns were sized and woven on a projectile weaving machine at two levels of warp tension. The fabric style was a plain weave sheeting. For each warp stop, a detailed cause analysis of the stop was performed in order to categorize each stop according to its failure mechanism. The effect of the fiber type on weaving performance shows that the 1.0 High-Tenacity fiber results in the lowest tension related stop level for all three spinning systems. The 1.0 High-Tenacity fiber resulted in the lowest overall stop level for all three spinning systems. The 1.5 Regular-Tenacity fiber resulted in the highest stop level for all categories of weaving breaks. The effect of the spinning system on the weaving performance shows that Ring spinning results in the least occurrences of tension related breaks. The Rotor spun yarns had the least occurrence of abrasion related stops.