Thesis Details


Thesis Title: The effects of open end rotor speed, rotor diameter and navel type on yarn structural characteristics and their subsequent effects on the aesthetic and physical characteristics of knitted fabrics
Thesis Author: Sheri L. Andrews Anderson
Abstract: Because yarn manufacturers are continually concerned about quality and because they may not be aware of all the effects of changes in spinning conditions on yarn quality this work was designed to correlate changes in yarn quality with changes in fabric appearance and performance properties. Yarns were spun using both a 46 mm and a 40 mm rotor at two different speeds. Two navel types, smooth and grooved ceramic, were also incorporated into the spinning conditions. This research determined that significant differences exist in the physical properties of yarns spun under various spinning conditions. Losses in quality were experienced when rotor diameter was decreased, when rotor speed was increased or when a grooved navel was used instead of a smooth one. The changes affected the two yarn types, 100 percent cotton and 50/50 polyester/cotton, differently however. The yarns were used to knit fabric panels consisting of one spinning condition and evaluated for changes in the properties of the fabrics. Significant changes were observed in the pilling, cover and unitormity properties of the fabrics. The yarns were also used to knit fabrics containing mixtures of yarn spinning conditions. Almost all fabrics contained barre or other aesthetically displeasing conditions in greige fabric form, and may carry over into the dyed and calendered goods. In some cases barre was not readily discernible in some lighting conditions, which could present problems in quality control of finished goods.